Introduction: The Electric Chair

This Exciting chair has cams underneath the seat which make the skeleton go loony!
Warning serve not sit in this chair!

Ill-trea 1: Qualification the Chair

Perforated list:

2 piece 2x4, 19" long for the front

2 piece 2X4, 16" long for the sides

4 piece 2x2, 14" long for the legs

4 piece 2x2, 6" long for the arm rest posts

2 piece 1x3, 16" long for the arm rests

1 piece 38" tall X 12-16 in wide for the back rest. (set if your skeletal system is a different sized)

screw the 16" pieces to the side of the 19" pieces to make a square. Screw the 14" pieces in the corner's for legs.
Attach the arm rest posts with nails. Nail the arm rests on top of the arm posts with a small air nail gun. The second is 38" tall but if your skeleton is taller make the back taller or wider atomic number 3 needed. I cut a 45 degree angle to make it face cool then just rounded IT remove with the sander. Paint IT the discolour you want.

Step 2: Seat

Valuate the indoors where the seat goes. cut a piece of 1/4" plywood approximately 1/4" smaller in both directions and PLACE it in that respect. Manage non secure it down or it won't influence, I added 2 to 3 nails Beaver State screws in presence of it to hold it from drop-off while still allowing it to move up and down. Key the whole chair a colourise that works for your needs.

Step 3: Secure Legs and Pelvis

Sit your skeleton down and bring him in the position you like, drill a small hole right internal and tail the front of the pelvis, then cut a wood dowel about 2 to 3" long. Bed the dowel to the seat in the middle of the pelvic girdle to preclude it from zippy impermissible of position. Mark the spot opportune at the front of the rump where the legs should be set and severed 2 blocks of wood tall enough to reach the merchantman of the branch bone and or so 3" long. Drill 2 holes for apiece block off and screw them down and paint.

Maltreat 4: Cams and Shaft

Items required:

5/16 operating room 8mm rib rod.

several wacky and washers to fit threaded rod including 2 "T" nuts OR rib machined hubs to hold cams.

2Pc. 8mm ID bearing with flanged pillow pulley on Aliexpress or on Amazon Note: 5/16 threaded rod will work perfectly inside the 8mm productive.

The heart of this project is the cam shaft that shakes the skeleton violently. This is accomplished by securing the threaded rod (shaft) subordinate the nates in the flanged pillow blocks. Be sure that the shaft is installed low enough below the seat that the Cam River can comprise big and strong enough to not discover. I suggest the cam beam of light gist to be 2" below the tail end.

Shaft

Drill a hole that is slightly bigger then the rod through the back butt rail at the bottom, put the gat through the hole. IT should reach from impartial inside the presence seat rail to at any rate 1.5" beyond the back buttocks rail. I added a piece of wood 3/4" thick to space the comportment away from the front seat rail but this was to a greater extent because I accidentally cut the threaded retinal rod a little too short.

On the outside end of the rod grind 3 flats at 120 degrees to tighten in a drill

Install one productive on the rod where information technology will be right against the back of the chair rail. Tighten a nut connected some the front and back of the bearing to keep it in place. When this bearing is screwed to the back side of the back seat rail the shaft should reach within approximately 1/16" or 1mm of the hind sidelong of the front seat rail, fitting enough that the front bearing can hold it but the diaphysis wish non rub connected the front buns rail.

Drill a 1/2" relief hole approximately 3/8" deep on the back side of the back seat train and then the retinal rod can become without the nut acquiring cragfast against the wood. Roll in the hay a comportment to the spinal column of the front seat rail after facing up the rod so that information technology turns freely. At this microscope stage you should have a piece of threaded rod which fanny turn freely in the bearings mounted under the hindquarters of the chair. Nuts demanding happening both sides of the rear posture prevent the dig from break. the shaft sticks out beyond the back of the seat approximately 1-1/2" where IT dismiss be secured in a practise chuck. You will remove the shaft and back bearing from the chairwoman for the assembly step.

Cams

Now measure the distance from the rod to the bottom of the seat, which should be approximately 2", role that attribute to set a compass and draw a circle. My dimension was 2" so I drew a 4" circle. Add bumps to the circle, 2-3 bumps approximately 3/8" on the far side the circle should be sufficient. Each knock against will clear the tail end rise and then fall again. To make the action seem uneven and violent the bumps should not be entirely the like sized surgery evenly spaced. Piss two, same for the anterior and one for the back. Make the front and back cams different so the action is far irregular. Cams are most well made of plywood but metal Crataegus laevigata be a good choice for some people. Drill a 5/16 hole in the center of the cam (which would be the center of the circle of the cam) if using a machined hub, or a yap to outfit over the T nut if indeed using. Don't bother to key the cams because they are not seen, and the paint would probably campaign some sticking problems. Install the T nuts or machined hubs over the cam center hole and secure them in place.

Assembly

Push the spear through the hole in the back hind end rail off, thread a nut, a washer, the put up cam, some other washer and another nut for the back. echo for the battlefront cam. This is a skilful time to install the shaft in a drill to birl the insane into their slump positions quickly. Inset the shaft into the front bearing and sleep with the punt bearing into position so the rod cell is secured in place. Position the cams in the spot you want near the second and the front of the chair (tip: I put my bigger crazier cam on the back because that is under the body of the skeleton). Stake the nut out of status about the width of the nut and apply 2-3 drops of red locktite (Amazon) to the threaded shaft happening both sides of both cams and so do it the nuts over the locktite and tighten against the cam on both sides. Wait at to the lowest degree 20 minutes for it to cure before running information technology.

Rub some mount or grease on the River Cam lobes to denigrate rubbing and scathe.

Step 5: Helmet

Part list:

A plastic bowl that fits connected your head will do. Spray rouge it metallic OR a gold colouring material.

2 pieces 1X2 4"long

1 piece 1X2 9" long

1 piece 1X2 3" long (you can spheric the corners off if you want)

2 pieces 3X1.5" strips of 1/4" thick plywood

Several nutty and bolts.

Glue and screw or nail the 4" pieces centered on the back of the chair leaving enough distance in the middle for for the 9"piece and standing above the top of the chair 1-1/2". Come in the 9" 'tween the two 4" pieces and drill a hole through all three pieces. insert a bolt and tighten a nut to secure it. provide it just friable enough to take into account the build up some movement.

mucilage and clinch the two 3" strips of 1/4" plywood on both sides of the front of the 9" arm poke out about 1-1/2". Place the 3" piece in between the Wood strips and drill a kettle of fish through them all and bolt them unneurotic, put a screw in through the middle of the helmet on the inside into the bottom of the 3" piece.

Drill 2 holes somewhere on the front of the helmet to put bolts through, get small gauge wire (16-22 gauge) some 36-48" long and wind the wire around a pipe as shown in the picture. Remove the pipe and wrap one last close to the bolt connected the helmet and the other end on a small screw in the backside of the back rest.

Abuse 6: Secure the Skeleton

To secure the skeleton, I misused white plumber's strap and screwed it to the blocks under the legs and arms. I selected a piece of textile from my garbage (I used a dark red) and cut a 3" strip. I rhythmic IT finished the legs, blazon, and neck. Staple it in on one side of each location and screw IT on the other side so it can be removed easy when needed. (Staples are optional, you could merely screw both sides.)

You have your somebody an ELECTRIC CHAIR!!

To operate the chair attach an electric drill to the shaft. Run the drill at a modest RPM. The skeletal system should shake violently the like he's having the worst daytime ever!

Step 7: Add Lights

Lighting is on the far side the scope of this instructable, Merely Put on'T NEGLECT TO DO IT!

I'm not qualified to teach arduino programing and lighting techniques and there are plenty of resources available online. Just I suggest you try adding some flashing white LEDs at heart the helmet. Maybe a couple another lights to clear up your laurel wreath. A strobe might beryllium really neat too. The Arduino can also ascendency the drill and sound effects.

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